Casino de Monte-Carlo
Operator: Monte-Carlo SBM · Place du Casino, Monaco
The building everyone credits to Charles Garnier, and the credit is mostly wrong. The original casino was built to designs by Gobineau de la Bretonnerie between 1858 and 1863; the present structure dates from 1865. Garnier's contribution came later and was narrower than the legend: the Salle Garnier, the little opera house, in 1878 to 1879, and the Trente-et-Quarante gaming room in 1880 to 1881. Two rooms, not a building. We labour the point because every second guidebook hands him the whole facade.
The operator is Monte-Carlo SBM, founded in 1863 under Prince Charles III and listed today on Euronext Paris. The Monegasque state is its majority shareholder. We have seen figures between roughly 60 and 64 per cent quoted, including on SBM's own pages, which are out of date; we are not going to state a precise number we cannot stand behind.
For a visitor the practical shape of the day is this: mornings are for looking, afternoons are for playing, and they are priced separately. Turn up at 10am and you are a tourist in an empty room with a camera. Turn up at 9pm and you are subject to every line of the dress code.
4/10
Access · paid door, enforced dress, heavy crowds, a class of person refused outright
The honest caveatThe forecourt is one of the most photographed spots on the coast and it feels like it. If you want the Belle Epoque hush the postcards promise, this is the address least likely to give it to you.
Exhibit · what Garnier built, and what he did not